Suðuroy and Lítla Dímun
Suðuroy is the southernmost island in the Faroes and it is this distance from the rest of the country, which partly explains its uniqueness, not only geographically but also in terms of language and culture. It is said, that the people of Suðuroy are more temperamental, open and easier to approach than the people throughout the rest of the country.
Its landscape is magnificent and idyllic, green, light and welcoming with spellbinding steep bird cliffs to the west. A perfect balance, male and female in one, the island can conjure up an almost surreal beauty both by day and by night. Instead of rushing around all the villages by car or bus in one day, stay two days and you will more than double the experience.
As with most of the other islands in the Faroes, the back of Suðuroy faces west towards the mighty Atlantic Ocean whilst its fjords and coves open towards the morning sun. The entire west coast is made up of sheer bird cliffs, broken only by four fjords at Hvalba, Lopra and Vágur. You can easily reach everywhere by car giving you the opportunity to enjoy the magnificent and unique scenery that can be idyllic or frighteningly violent, depending on the weather.
If you travel north first, you will come to Hvalba. Here the villages lie smiling towards the visitor, the two northernmost facing the fairytale uninhabited island of Lítla Dímun, a viewpoint and landmark. In days gone by, Sumba in the south and Hvalba in the north were important villages. Hvalba became more prominent, it was here that the only minister on the island lived and the connection to Tórshavn via Sandoy was the shortest.
Located in Hvalba are the remnants of a large mining operation, still in production although on a much smaller scale. Ten minutes north of Hvalba through a tunnel, is the village of Sandvík mentioned in the Faroese Sagas. Here you can explore and enjoy the deserted sandy beach. Follow the road into the valley by car and then continue on foot when the road becomes too rough and you will come to Rituskor, where the view of the sheer bird cliffs is simply fantastic.
In 1836, twenty years before the Danish trade monopoly ended, a store was established on the northern side of the natural harbour, Trongisvágsfjørður. It became known as Tvøroyri and quickly grew to be the most important trading place in the Faroe Islands. The old shop, warehouse and sail loft have been lovingly restored and are in use as a café, restaurant and museum. Tvøroyri has grown over the years so that it now joins the old villages of Trongisvágur and Froðba, where there are some unusual basalt column formations worth seeing. Froðba is where the famous Brandan stepped ashore. Less than an hour’s pleasant hike north of Tvøroyri will bring you to the idyllic and peaceful area known as Hvannhagi with its beautiful lake and extraordinary view. In the middle of the island is the small farming village of Øravík. Nearby is the island’s ancient meeting place known as “Uppi millum Stovur”, it is a pleasant ten-minute walk from Hotel Øravík and will give you a unique and enjoyable experience.
The small village of Fámjin lies on the western side of the island looking directly out to the harsh sea, although partly protected by a stone reef. This peaceful village is the perfect spot to enjoy some fantastic sunsets. The church houses the first ever Faroese flag. If you like to walk, go up from the village to the lake known as “Kirkjuvatn” (Church lake), one of the largest on the island.
A five-minute drive south of Øravík will bring you to the village of Hov. According to the Faroese Sagas and local stories, it was here that the Viking Havgrímur lived. He was a great chieftain and ruled over much of the country. The village got its name from his pagan altar, “Hov”, where sacrifices were made to the Nordic gods. His grave is “undir Homrum” in Hov and is the only chieftain burial site to be found on the Faroe Islands. When you see the place, you will no doubt understand why the main farm came to be situated just here.
There is a beautiful ancient wooden church dating from 1847 in the neighbouring village of Porkeri, well worth a visit.
Vágur, the main town in the southern part of the island, has also seen a dramatic expansion. Like Tvøroyri, it drew many people in the first half of the 1900’s. Signs of these great times can still be seen in both towns; private houses with gardens and commercial buildings have been preserved, along with stately churches such as the Norwegian inspired wooden church in Tvøroyri and the concrete church in Vágur. In Vágur, there are many sights both old and new worth seeing, including the recently restored warehouse and the Ruth Smith Art gallery. Ruth Smith was one of Scandinavia’s most distinguished colourists from the previous century and lived in Vágur for many years.
Sumba is in the south of the island and is the village where the Faroese chain dance has had a particular stronghold. From here, it is worth driving to Akraberg and the lighthouse on the southernmost tip of the Faroe Islands. On route to Sumba, you will see the mountain called Beinisvørð, formed as a long grass slope that ends in a dramatic drop on the opposite side. On top of Beinisvørð, there is a fantastic view where you can soak up the panorama of Sumba to the south, Suðuroy’s steep western side to the north and the luscious grass slopes to the east; in a blink, the true essence of the Faroe Islands with mountains and fjords, villages and valleys, birds and sheep, man and nature.
SUMMER EVENTS AND FESTIVALS
For many years Suðuroy has been the only island in the Faroes that celebrates Midsummer’s Day. The two main towns alternate in hosting the festival which attracts many guests from all over the country. It is difficult to find accommodation at this time and the ferry to the island is always full. The rowing races are an important part of the festival and the programme of events is as extensive and varied as at the other festivals around the country.
EXCURSIONS
BUS TOURS
Hvalba and Sandvík: We visit the ancient, fishermen’s landing
site. In Sandvík we visit a restored, traditional Faroese home. On
our return trip to Tvøroyri, we explore Suðuroy’s west side and take a
closer look at the impressive bird cliffs with our binoculars.
Sumba: On this special bus tour to Sumba, the southernmost
village on Suðuroy, we stop in Vágur to savour an extraordinary bit of
sea coast known as Vágseiði, as well as the woollen mill, Ullavirkið,
which designs and manufactures knitwear using only Faroese wool.
Further south, we visit the site near Lopra of the geological test
well. We experience the dramatic vista of Beinisvørð, the 469 metres
high promontory, and linger in Akraberg at the lighthouse.
HIKING
Hvannhagi: With a breathtaking view of Lítli and Stóri Dímun,
Hvannhagi is located north of Tvøroyri. Besides being one of the most
beautiful and distinctive places in the Faroe Islands, Hvannhagi is a
very interesting place as regards geology.
Hvalba and Trongisvágur: We hike from Hvalba over the mountains
to Trongisvágur. The first stage of the hike is a steep, but not
difficult, ascent. Thereafter, we follow the cairns along a mountain
path. Throughout our trip, we will experience many extraordinary
vistas, and thousands of birds.
Kasparshola, the Kaspar cave, near to Sumba: The two men Kaspar
and Sjúrður were renting land from the priest in Vágur, but the rent
was so expensive that the two men did not have much left for
themselves. They finally stole some mutton, and the Kaspar cave became
their hideout from the surrounding world.
The mountains south of Vágur: The walk to Rútafelli and the top
of Rávan takes you out in the most beautiful part of the Faroese
nature, from views over birdcliffs and the cliffs west of Vágur, to the
view of the impressing Beinisvørð to the south.
Vágur to Fámjin: The old mountain path between Vágur and Fámjin was
originally the “main road” between the two villages. The path goes
through beautiful nature in the mountains north of Vágur and runs along
the cliffs to the west.
VISIT TO THE LOCAL ART GALLERY
Gallery Oyggin arranges art shows by well known Faroese and Nordic
artists. It is open Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays,
Saturdays and Sundays from 14.00 to 18.00. Surrounded by the
gallery’s pleasant and comfortable environment, one can enjoy Faroese
and Nordic art and absorb some of Suðuroy’s most beautiful scenery.
EXOTIC DAY TRIP TO LÍTLA DÍMUN
The trip starts by boat from Hvalba or by helicopter from Tvøroyri. A
fantastic experience of the island’s nature, witnessing birds and
sheep. It is possible to stay overnight under primitive conditions.
For more information about all the tours, please contact the tourist information:
Kunningarstovan in Tvøroyri
Tel. +298 372480
fax +298 371814
sout-inf@post.olivant.fo
www.visitsuduroy.fo
or
Kunningarstovan in Vágur
Tel. +298 374342
fax +298 374442
infovag@post.olivant.fo,
www.visitsuduroy.fo
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