Imagine sitting in a 48-foot small wooden boat, built in the good old way, on a nice summer’s day on a glittering sea, surrounded by green mountains. Would you like to try that?
You can, as the old mail boat servicing the Northern Isles is still there, faithfully going to and fro in all weathers and seasons. Much to the surprise of the local people and perhaps especially to the crew, the service is even famous. For them this is all routine, whilst at certain times of the year they have to fight through rough weather, other people can get into a nice comfortable bus to reach their destination in no time. But the service is described in the well known traveller’s book ‘Lonely Planet’, as unique in the world and certainly one of the most surprising of experiences for any visitor. Until recently there were two routes and two boats, both painted black and white, that provided a daily service transporting post, freight, visitors and relatives. A brand new ferry harbour has been built on Kalsoy and the old boat that used to sail here has been replaced by a ferry that sails several times a day between Klaksvík and Syðradalur on Kalsoy; one of the most remarkable islands in the Faroes with its long narrow shape. The west side is dramatic and steep in comparison to the east side where the small idyllic villages are situated.
The bus trip from Húsar to Trøllanes takes you through four dark and narrow tunnels, but rest assured, Ragna, the bus driver, has made this trip a thousand times and she will take you safely through to Mikladalur and further on. Mikladalur is a well known motif in Faroese paintings, as several of the best Faroese painters are from that village.
Kalsoy has many legends. The best known of them is the legend about the seal woman who was captured and forced to marry a farmer’s son from Mikladalur and had children with him. But she longed to go back to the sea and one day when her husband had gone fishing, she found the key to the chest where her seal skin was hidden, put it on and returned to her natural element.
But let us go back to the other mail boat Másin. It still plies its old route, faithful as ever by sailing from Hvannasund, the village on the narrow sound between Borðoy and Viðoy and out to the easternmost islands of Svinoy and Fugloy; a trip that can be described as one of the most magnificent in the Faroe Islands. Lean back and enjoy the sight of all the birds, busily engaged in bringing food to their young ones. Watch the puffin that can carry up to 20 small fish in its beak at a time. How it manages to take another fish without dropping the others is still a mystery!
It is easy to understand how Fugloy, the bird island, got its name. A little more difficult is the name of Svínoy, for there are no swine or pigs in the Faroes. But once there were some, and legend has it that Svínoy was originally a floating island and did not become fixed until a woman from Viðareiði fastened a bunch of keys to the tail of a sow and made it swim to the island. Thus the island was fixed, locked by the iron keys.
In these islands you may still meet people who live in complete harmony with nature. Do not mistake their natural reticence for shyness. You have come to them only to stay for a little while, but they have always been here, and their time is not the usual working day from nine to five.
But modern times are not far away, and in Klaksvík the visitor who would prefer a smooth ride to the boat trip can take the bus that runs north to Viðareiði. The vicarage is one of the most beautiful houses in the Faroes and the most renowned clergyman’s wife from this vicarage was Beinta, who became the main character in the famous novel Barbara by Jørgen-Frantz Jacobsen. From the village you can take a hike to the northernmost point of the Faroes - Enniberg, which is Europe’s highest promontory. You can stay overnight at the comfortable Hotel Norð.
From Klaksvík you can also go by bus to the island of Kunoy, the highest of all the islands (average height). The village on the west side is known for its beautiful site with its view west and north towards Kalsoy. The sunset on a good summer’s evening is breathtaking.
Overwhelming scenery and impressive peace; but it is the busy and energetic town of Klaksvík that is the centre of the Northern Islands, and this is where all visits to these islands begin and end.
In 1838 the Royal Trade Monopoly opened a branch here and Klaksvík became an independent municipality in 1908. As Klaksvík is situated around a very well-protected bay and was approved as a winter berth for seagoing vessels, many skippers and their crews moved to Klaksvík, and from that time Klaksvík started to develop and became the main fishing port in the islands. Klaksvík is the capital of the Northern Islands and has all the facilities you expect to find in a town. It is very important for Faroese industry and economy, and the arts also have a home here. The Christians church is one of the most interesting to be found on the Faroes. It was designed by the Danish architect Peter Koch and is the first large church in Scandinavia to be built in the ancient Nordic style. The font is considered to be approximately 3000-4000 years old and is, without doubt, the oldest in use in Scandinavia.
If on your trip to the Faroes you have missed visiting the Northern Islands, you have not had the full benefit of your visit. It is easy to get to this part of the country. Several times daily a direct bus and car ferry links Klaksvík with the other islands, and this journey through the magnificent Faroese scenery is in itself an experience. Take your time and stay for a while in Klaksvík. At Norðoyar Kunningarstova, the tourist information centre, you will get all the information you need about accommodation, travelling, trips, and local events.
In April 2006, the 5,6 km long underwater tunnel (150m beneath sea level) between Klaksvík and Leirvík was opened to the public. It now takes approximately one hour to travel direct from Tórshavn and Vágar airport to the northern islands.
SUMMER EVENTS AND FESTIVALS
With the warmer weather of summer and the light nights, come the summer festivals and town celebrations. It all begins with Norðoyarstevna in Klaksvík at the end of May. The town is festively decorated with bunting and the guests flock to town; the festivities begin with processions, music and speeches and continue with a programme of meetings, exhibitions and sports competitions. Perhaps the most important competition is the rowing event, where the whole country follows with great excitement as the results come in from the first competition of the year.
It was in 2004 that Klaksvík took the initiative of holding a music festival in the summer, inviting well known international artists to perform alongside Faroese musicians and singers. It was a huge success drawing many visitors to the town and has become an annual event.
"Seaman's Day" is held on the third weekend in August in Klaksvík. The focus is upon the Faroe Islands main industry for an entire weekend with competitions, lectures and exhibitions relating to the fishing industry. It ends with a dance on the saturday evening.
approximately one hour to travel direct from Tórshavn and Vágar airport to the northern islands.
EXCURSIONS
Norðoya Kunningarstova arranges several excursions daily, if the attendance is sufficient. Among the excursions are:
BUS TOURS
Viðareiði
We start by visiting the village of
Árnafjørður and continue to Viðareiði, where we visit the church and
have a cup of coffee at Hotel Norð. On our way back we visit the fish
fillet plant in Klaksvík. We end the tour with a visit to the museum
Norðoya Fornminnissavn.
Historic sightseeing tour of Klaksvík
A tour of the town where we visit the Christianskirkjan, the museum Norðoya Forminnisavn and the plantation "Uti í Grøv".
BOAT TRIPS
Three of the six northern islands, Fugloy, Svinoy and Kalsoy have
no road connection to the other islands and are dependent on the old
post route. Following the old post route has become a popular tourist
attraction, both on account of the wonderful scenery and the attraction
of the now historic post boats.
DIVING
The sea around the Faroe Islands is said to be one of the cleanest
in the world. There are countless suitable and unusual sites to explore
with a beautiful and varied sea bed that only a few have touched. So
why not try something new and experience the Faroes/Northern Isles
beautiful and dramatic nature under the sea.
FAROESE EVENING
The tourist information in Klaksvík can on request, arrange a
Faroese cultural evening with entertainment, dancing and a light meal
of Faroese specialities. Advance booking necessary.
WALKING TOURS
The tourist information in Klaksvík arranges several guided
walking tours. Arranged in cooperation with the guide, they are an
experience for both mind and soul. There are easy tours and more
difficult ones for the experienced hiker.
SEA ANGLING
What could be more natural than to go on a fishing trip from
Klaksvík? - the Faroe Islands largest and most important fishing port.
There are good opportunities to come out to the best fishing spots from
Klaksvík, both to the north and to the south, in all weathers. It will
be an unforgettable experience for the lone tourist, groups or the
whole family to feel the fish bite.
BOAT TRIP TO ONE OF THE HIGHEST HEADLANDS
A headland is measured from the surface of the sea upwards. One
of the highest headlands in the world (750 metres) is the northernmost
part of Viðoy. Nevertheless, on account of the changeable weather
conditions, few people manage to sail out there. You might be one of
the lucky ones.
For more information and booking of tours, please contact:
Norðoya Kunningarstova
Tel. +298 456939,
fax +298 456586
info@klaksvik.fo,
www.visitnordoy.fo